Russians were foodies, say, more than a century ago, who proposed harmonizing wine with a plate. But along a culinary history in which the marriage was fruit drinks Chef subjectivity or proximity of a wine region and tasting experience cemented by blow of trial and error, there was finally someone who certified the wine-lasting marriage and kitchen: the chef Alain Senderens , with reference book Le vin et la table. "Our job is to make the wine sing," says Cook, 73. "It is for the marriage which was nouvelle cuisine to world cuisine," according to exsumiller of elBulli Ferran Centelles , author of a "chronological evolution of contemporary marriage." The teacher and the student agreed the International Wine & Culinary Forum held in Barcelona a few days ago on the initiative of Bodegas Torres and perceptions back together in the next congress Gastronomika San Sebastián .
"I taste the wine first and then I think the dish. The texture and volume of wine is more important than the aromas, "says Senderens, love champagne and whose first challenge was to find a drink that Apicius marry a duck stew with honey and spices: he did with a vintage Banyuls. "I modified the recipe based on the pairing. I put less cumin "recalls the chef, and after that came more aptly:" The wine made me progress in cooking. " In the eagerness of evolution, returned his Michelin stars to remove expenses and commitments: "It was the best idea I ever had."
Gamba odorous vapor. / Celler de Can Roca
It is precisely the ideas arising from the knowledge of the nectar of the grapes which assembled the "cooking wine" that Josep Roca practiced with siblings Joan and Jordi in El Celler de Can Roca . "What we do is not mechanical, it's personal," says sommelier Catalan, which has developed a wide range of affinities, contrast and complement not only alcohol, but also milk and tea, one of his passions. The correspondences of wine and ingredients, along with the suggestion and observation of reactions in the diner, are part of the "emotional management of the restaurant." "Not always the best combination is the most suitable. Perfect is not always interesting. You have to adapt to the client and their tastes, stiffness flee, "says Linda Rock and is verified by Violago (Danish Restaurant Geranium ) and Johan Agrell (Swedish Restaurant Faviken ), two passionate sommeliers natural wines that do not believe in formula a wine, a plate: "There is no perfect marriage."
The relationship between food and wine requires instinct, but also science. The proof of Canadian research François Chartier, author of Taste and molecules, the art and science of food and wine (a bestseller that has led to a documentary). Chartier studies on ingredients and perceptions, inspired and inspiring at elBulli laboratory "can be tried at home." "Everybody can play with flavor combinations," encouraged. Spectators in Wine & Culinary him play with seemingly impossible pairing red and white with foam tips as paella, beef tataki and sushi rice and black olives.